Travel day. Easy trip. Direct train to Firenze, and hopefully no problems. I feel like I might be a little jinxed. As I was walking to the train car that would carry me to Firenze I passed a pair of nuns, in full on nun garb complete with sandals that looked like they had climbed Calgary. They were standing at a snack machine. I had passed but my rolling bag had yet to, when one of the nuns turned and walked into it. I felt the impact and turned in time to put a steadying hand on her left arm while her fellow nun clutched the right. She did not fall but there was a moment of doubt that had us all wide eyed. I babbled out a couple of “scuzzi’s” and she nodded and went on her way. Being raised Catholic I was instilled with a fear and awe for catholic nuns that persists to this day. She nodded which means she acknowledged my meager apology but she didn’t smile which could mean she was pissed off at me, and that could mean that some sort of curse was being leveled at me as I continued to my train car, something that might render me sick, crippled, or even worse…impotent. Well it might be a while before I know for sure, but I am tuning what is left of my hearing to the sound of that other shoe dropping.
On the train I sat opposite a really nice couple from Patterson NJ. Doug is a banker of some sort, Liz, a yoga instructor. It was the first time I had had an extended conversation with fellow Americans since coming here. They had been traveling Italy and we’re just full of life and energy. They both were interested in my trip and the way I’m taking it. We all agreed that sometimes you just have to “go for it and not look back. I’ll admit to a bit back looking as this adventure began, but now that I’m in my groove all I want to do is keep moving, discovering, finding out what happens next. I recall a scene from the HBO show WEEDS, the heroine, a morally ambivalent pot dealer and her drug kingpin boyfriend are holding a DEA agent captive in the next room. The boyfriend is armed and ready to do a bloody deed, the heroine is freaked out. The kingpin/boyfriend fixes her with a scary steely look and says “whatever happens in that room, is only what happens next…”
What happened next On the train is I fell asleep. Awoke 15 mins out of Firenze. Exchanged a few more pleasantries with Doug and Liz, noticed the seat next to me now contained a person. A rather serious looking fellow who was using his iPad and earbuds to shut out the world. I got him to acknowledge my existence long enough for me to get out of my seat and grab my bag off the overhead. We we pulling into the station. Liz and Doug were going on to Roma. I waved and headed out. Earbud guy was lost in an episode of Lost.
Got into the station and bought a Firenze Map at a news stand. This was the best map I have used on this trip. It had what all maps should have, a list of streets and their corresponding map coordinates. Took 1 minute to see that my hotel was a short walk from the station. BTW, the #1 upside to train travel is that when you arrive you are already near the city center. Airports, by their nature, have to be located an expensive cab ride away from the place you really want to be.
Got to the Hotel Kraft. Checked in, dumped my stuff decided to see about booking the trip from Roma to Barcelona in a few days. Found that it is not going to be an easy trip. I may be totally winging it from place to place bouncing like a pinball through northern Italy and southern France in order to get to Espana. Did someone say adventure?
First order of business was to find the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica Di Santa Maria Novella. I had an order to fill for some perfume that can only be found at this place. I thought it would be like the perfume counter at Saks,but nooooo. This place is an institution, that was founded in 1612 and has been making fragrances for the well heeled of Europe ever since. It is staffed by sophisticated and very winsome, willowy women, in understated dark blue dresses, black stockings an shiny stylish shoes, who, by their very manner, reminded me that this store had been operating longer and better than my country. I went through the gates into the reception area, all amber light, and frescos painted on the high, high, ceilings. The walls were glass fronted closets containing crystal decanters of different fragrances and ingredients for custom perfumes. No music playing In the background, this was a serious enterprise. I approached the woman at the Polished walnut reception rostrum, told her what I wanted. She smiled, her eyes flicked down momentarily, and in an instant she produced a small, card of nicely laid card stock inscribed with words I could it read.
“Take this to the next room”
I obeyed and in the next room was greeted by a softly smiling woman with thick hair and very expensive glasses. I handed her the card, she glanced at it, disappeared for a moment and returned with the fragrance already bagged. I paid and then asked if it was alright if I took a picture. She graciously allowed me to do so. I felt like I had glimpsed a world that had been hidden from me. An amazing experience.
Back to the hotel to drop off the treasure, then dinner at a fantastic place called Buca Mario. Yikes! My first serious dining experience in Italy. I had a salad of Breseola and arugula, and a main course of the wild boar ragout with fried polenta. A nice chianti was the wine and the meal was brilliant. Service was impeccable. The waiter kept telling me that I look like Jean Reno. Brought other waiters and several of the kitchen staff to look at me and they all agreed. We laughed and laughed. Began talking with the couple at the table next to me. Vincent and Marina We’re honeymooners from the Philippines and total foodies. I had glanced at what they were having from time to time and these two really knew how to enjoy. I finally broke the ice and saluted them on the fine dinner they were enjoying. Before long we were having dessert together (tiramisu, out of this world) and they very generously provided me with notes on more great restaurants. By the time we were done we were the only people left In the restaurant and we agreed to meet again in Roma.
Back at the hotel I crashed and slept hard. I needed it.