One last chance to roam in Roma and I decided to make a full day of it. My belly full of breakfast coffee and croissant I marched to the Piazza Barberini and looked around for a hop on hop off tour bus. In no time I was on top of a double decker bus creeping, crawling, booming and zooming In and out of Roman traffic. The top was off the bus and I was enjoying the sunshine and cool breeze. So much so that I didn’t mind that the tour recording didn’t play no matter what jack I plugged my earbuds into. Didn’t really matter though since all the sights we were seeing I had already covered on foot the day before. I just wanted to be driven around a bit and give my legs a rest. When we stopped at the Vatican I jumped hopped off and explored a bit. Took a look at the river and browsed the long line of book stands that are set up under shade trees on the river front. It was then that I noticed something that had been getting my attention but I had not given any thought. Every day I noticed that certain cobbled streets and walkways were wet and reflecting light in interesting ways. I was surprised because I did not hear any rain in the evening nor see any in the day. And now, by the river strolling along head down watching my size 10’s strike the “wet” cobblestones, I could see that they were not wet at all. They were worn smooth shiny and just a little reflective by the millions of feet that had trod upon them over years and years and years. That gave me a moments pause. And a bemused smile.

Hopped onto another double decker, tour recording didn’t work on that one either, and hopped off near a site that didn’t show up on my tour map but that I knew was there. I wanted to see the old Jewish Ghetto.

It’s a tiny neighborhood. The streets are for foot traffic only. Not much to see really. I guess the fact that it exists is the point of seeing it. In the 16th century it was created out of fear and intolerance, now it is there as a reminder of how destructive human weaknesses cannot overcome hope and determination.

After a lunch of pizza and wine, I strolled back to the hotel and took a nap. My plan was to rest up for a night time foray into Rome on this last night in town. It was a smart idea.

As the sun went down I went out. Hopped the metro out to a place called Pyramide, where there really Ia a pyramid next to an old fortress wall. Went to a couple of Piazzas that were supposed to be crowded on an evening but that was not the case. I may have been early. Got back on the metro and went to the Coliseum, as it is supposed to be a nice night sight. It was. Some people were hanging out, but there was nothing going on that was grabbing my interest. The usual peddlers were selling the same little trinkets that I’ve been siting around since Paris, especially the little flying toy that’s shot into the air with a rubber band looking like a dart as it reaches for it’s apex, when it’s momentum decreases two little wings relax into their natural position, and the toy helicopters back to earth. The big attraction is that this toy has glowing turquoise/green LEDs in it so it is eye catching at night. I imagine they’ll be in Barcelona, and Madrid when I arrive.

After a few uneventful minutes at the Colosseum I decided to get on the Via del Corso and make my way to the Spanish steps. Getting there means walking through the archeological district where some ancient Roma is being unearthed and displayed. Judging by the signage, this dig and preservation is a prelude to the building of a new subway line. When you want to upgrade in the Eternal City you have got to plan ahead. On my way I noticed a little pub in an alleyway. Sounds of laughter and clinking glass were drifting over from the place. Above the door was a glowing Guinness sign and above that was a sign, “Trinity College”. An image of James Joyce flashed In my mind. A beer seemed a good idea and I could use a little rest. Walked up past the outdoor tables, pulled open the door and collided with the waitress, a tall, athletic looking girl with a wide smile and her hair pull into multiple little pony tails all over her head. We smiled, then did a little doe see doe as I went in, and she dashed out. I took a look around, every barstool was full. Two of them were occupied by children, not an issue in these parts. Tables were all taken, so I made for the door which opened as I reached for it and I collided with the waitress again. This time we laughed. Found an empty table outside, sat down and waited a long time for that very busy waitress to arrive. She finally did come to take my order,

“What do you like to drink mister?”

I wasn’t sure when I would see her again,

“Two Birra Carlsburg please”

Just then a car started honking its’ horn long and loud, the waitress and I both jumped a bit and looked at a black Mercedes blocked in its parking spot by a beat up red Renault. The tinted window on the German sedan rolled down and a lady with a face as hard and shiny as her car started shouting at the waitress, the waitress shouted something back and then turned toward the bar and let loose a cry of,

“Massimo!!!, MASSIMO!!!”

Another exchange of shouts and the tinted glass, resumed its proper place. The waitress, looked at me for a moment and stuck out the tip of her tongue, and rolled her eyes,

“So, what you like to drink Mister?”
I didn’t even blink,

“Two Birra Carlsburg please”

She paused a split second and then laughed out loud, she had pretty teeth. Then she knocked on her temple and let out a lilting,

“Hellooooo”

And she was off. She had a tattoo on her right tricep, just above the elbow, the Eye of Horus. Interesting girl.

Sitting at the table to my left was a couple in deep conversation, they were speaking English but with an accent I had never heard before. He looked like he was from southern Italy, olive complexion curly black hair, dark eyes. She was the opposite, very fair, with a head of stark white hair, streaked with a the same shade of turquoise I had see in those flying glow toys all over Europe. Her hair was cut to look like an anime character with heavy bangs. Those two were a pleasant mystery.

More honking from the Mercedes. I could here the waitress somewhere inside shouting for Massimo again. A moment later a skinny little guy all in white burst out the bar and hopped into the beat up Renault. He fired it up and then backed it up just enough for the Mercedes to pull out, which it did in a very stately fashion. Then Massimo put the Renault back to it’s original position, hopped out and beat feet back into the bar. Guess pulling into the empty space would have taken too long.

Waitress arrived with the beers. They went down easy. After a bit I got into a conversation with my neighbors. Turns out they were from Wales. Ned and Arielle were on holiday in Rome to visit his family. They were engaged and planned to wed in 2015. As we were talking they asked the waitress for a glass, and they shared their wine with me. Then another bottle appeared and they shared that, Our talk turned to Arielle’s art work and tattoo designs, Ned described his new startup, they are building an App that will take every bit of paper out to then recruiting process. The second bottle went dry so then I bought a bottle and we shared that, and then things started to get fuzzy. And before long Ned and I were in a deep conversation about software development and we were joined by an Irishman named Ian and his young wife, Catherine, and more drinks were drunk and the Ned and Arielle gave me hugs as they left and a group of young people, one of whom recognized me from some tv show, I think Seinfeld, made room for me at their table and the guy who recognized me, Eugene, bought me drinks and tried to set me up with one of the girls at the table who was having no part of that deal but who remained pleasant anyway. Now things were really fuzzy. I decided I needed to finish my trek to the Spanish steps. And when I got to my feet I sat back down immediately. Must have been an earthquake, but I was the only one who felt it. Offers to call a cab were rebuffed and hugs and kisses were exchanged as I stumbled into the Roman night beset by a very annoying and long lasting earthquake that had me weaving and swaying all the way up the Via del Corso.

After getting very lost, and finding my blurry map of little help, I found the Spanish steps and managed to fall twice climbing them, the second fall tweaked my foot so I decided to sit and take a little break. Even in my fuzzy state it was clear that this was a beautiful place.
Got my strength up and made the final stumble to the hotel. Not sure how I got to my room. At 7:00AM I awoke in my clothes. Travel day! At least the earthquake was confined to my head, making it much easier to limp in a straight line.

Ciao Roma!